Colour shades with cochineal

With the use of mordants and dye assists, a whole range of colour shades can be achieved with cochineal.  Every dyer has their own recipes and tricks to get the desired results, but as with any natural dyes, experimentation is key.

Cochineal insect

The cochineal s a scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which the natural dye carmine is derived. A primarily sessile parasite native to tropical and subtropical South America through North America and parts of Europe, this insect lives on cacti in the genus Opuntia, feeding on plant moisture and nutrients. The insects are found on the pads of prickly pear cacti, and are collected by brushing them off the plants where they are then dried.  The dried insects can then be crushed and used in dye baths to yield the wonderful scarlet red colour .

Carminic Acid

Carminic acid, typically 17-24% of dried insects' weight, can be extracted from the body and eggs, then mixed with aluminium or calcium salts to make carmine dye, also known as cochineal.